svs_005.doc
RSS Screen Printer set up sequence.                                                        
The following things relate to the web indexing and tracking.

1) Make sure the machine is clean of all gum (adhesive) and ink.

2) Place the roll of material to be printed on the unwind stand in the 
centre of the unit.
   
3) Thread the web up through the RSS infeed rollers and shafts so that the 
web face is against the rollers not the shafts.

4) Check the pull drum for vacuum pressure. The  test is to wrap a piece 
of full width paper around the pull drum so as to completely cover all the 
holes. This  should result in a vacuum pressure on the gauge of over 60. 
Maximum would be about 90 but if under 60 then the system requires checking 
for leaks. The drum end plate and transfer manifold should be clean and 
lubricated with silicone grease. the filter should be checked for clear
passage of air and the lines checked for leaks. If these things are checked 
and vacuum on the gauge is still below 60 then the vacuum pump must be 
looked at. Remove the cover and this will reveal the pump. The head may be 
removed from the pump which will reveal the reed valves. Make sure these 
are in perfect condition and no foreign matter is under them causing the 
seal to be unreliable. Make sure when screwing them back on that a little 
Loctite is used on the screws.
Reconnect the pump and check vacuum again. If still below 60 then the pump 
piston seal may be at fault. Contact the factory if this is the case.

5) Take the web over the print table and over the drum. Set the infeed 
guides so that the web is in the centre of the infeed end scale engraved 
on the table. Set the guides to just touch the web edges. The web should 
be centred on the outfeed end scale and those guides set just to touch. 
The infeed guides on the bars must now be set so the web is vertical 
through the infeed labyrinth.

6) Cover the holes on the table outside the web with a piece of thin stock. 

7) Cover all exposed holes on the pull drum with Rubylith tape or something 
similar, do not use permanent adhesive tape as it will be difficult to 
remove. If   the web is only covering half a hole and it is hard to get 
the Rubylith seal up to the web edge then move the web out of the way and 
cover the row of holes with Rubylith and then put the web over it again. 
If Rubylith is used then tracking will not be effected as it will be under 
both edges of the web. The small idler wheels should be just close enough 
to the face of the drum to stop the vacuum being released by the web coming 
away from the drum, they do not need to be hard against the drum.  

8) Index the web using the single pull button to make sure the web is 
tracking true through the press. It may be found that the web guides on 
the out feed end may need to be moved slightly to avoid web edge curl. 
This is quite normal.

9) If the web is not slit straight then there is no way good register can 
be achieved.
After all these things have been done then the printer is ready to be set 
up.

Getting set up to print.

1) Set the repeat length in the keypad.

2) Load the screen in the frame and lock in place with the thumb screws.

3) Lower the screen assembly to the full down position and check the 
position of the image over the web by pressing the mesh down by hand. The 
frame has adjustment for position using the two M5 adjusters at each end 
of the screen frame assembly. There is about 15 mm each way available and 
this should be ample if the artwork and screens are centred properly. Proper 
attention to position is going to make life easy for the printer. The screen 
position may be twisted using these adjusters to align the image square to 
the web. 

4) Check the squeegee and flood blade down positions by turning the air off 
at the tap on the right hand end of the machine and pressing them down by 
hand. Adjust as necessary after inking up using the knurled knob on the top 
of the assembly.

5) Manually move the head and set the start of stroke position switch so 
that the flood blade is just past the left hand end of the image. Do the 
same for the end of stroke position so that the squeegee is only just past 
the image before it lifts. Ifthis adjustment is not set properly the 
squeegee will travel over the end of the previous image. The open shutter 
switch can be set after the machine is running.

6) The machine is equipped with a hydraulic peel angle adjuster. Depending 
on the type of print this may be adjusted to get the best print results.

7) If you are ready to print then the ink may be poured into the screen. 
This is best done by moving the head as far to the left as it will go 
without contacting the overrun switch.

8) The amount of ink required is found by experience but as a rule it is 
best to minimise the amount down as this stops it being thrown about by 
the fast action of the squeegee & flood.  

 9) The head must be positioned at the start pull switch and the machine 
should be ready to print.

10) Fine adjustment of the screen can be made after the first few images 
have come through the dryer. A litho grid sheet is ideal for checking the 
image is square to the web.

11) Adjustment of squeegee angle is up to the printer and is not usually 
required to be changed. The flood blade angle should not need to be changed 
at all once a good setting is reached. Remember sharp squeegees give best 
prints.

12) The pressure of the squeegee and flood blades is adjusted with the knobs 
on the top of the head. They may be set before the screen is put in the 
press by lowering the head to the stop and turning the air off then pushing 
them down by hand whilst adjusting the pressure depth stop knobs.